Why did it take so long

 There’s value in work you enjoy, or that serves a need. There’s no value in work for its own sake

Elizabeth Bear, Ancestral Nights

(if you like Sci-fi check out Elizabeth Bear)

One thing thats always bugged me was turning the bottom 6⁰ taper smooth after the end (and thus the center) has been cut off. It's near impossible to find the absolute dead center again and so the piece spins off center which is doesn't help at all. This is especially problematic with arm posts as they are double ended and they are visible...very visible.  I use a tenoner from Elia Bizzari which makes a great 6⁰ tenon but it does leave a rough spot where it ends that must be turned away. 

So tonite after 15 years and maybe hundreds of arm posts and legs it dawned on me to just put the tapered end in the open #2 Morse taper on the drive end and stick the other end (which still has a center) on the live center and there ya go. Bob's your uncle. A perfectly centered piece that can be trued up and looks great. On one hand I'm glad I thought of it on the other I'm kinda wondering why it took 15 years to see this. 

Fast Growth is Stronger (sometimes)

The Devil can quote scripture, after all. And monsters can say “please” and “thank you” same as any mother’s son.

Elizabeth Bear, Karen Memory

I noticed this piece of red oak and thought it would be a good opportunity to explain why fast growing wood is, in some cases, stronger than slow growing wood. You can see below the holes (more of a matrix really) that is seen in ring porous woods during early wood growth stage. This is during the spring of the year when the sap runs and the tree is growing quickly.  The size of this growth, ie the width, is pretty consistent year over year. Next as the starches in the roots run out the tree transitions to so called late wood this is the growth that is put on during the summer and early fall.  

Below you can clearly see years of good late wood growth and years of poor late wood growth.  The difference in strength thus becomes the ratio of early growth to late wood. In the lower part of the picture you can see the ratio is about 50 50 vs the upper part where it looks to me to be about 4 or 5 to 1. So the wood in the top of the picture is much stronger than the wood in the bottom. 

A couple points. Early wood and late wood are not to be confused with juvenile (sometimes called reaction) wood which is something else entirely.  

Second this does not apply to diffuse porous woods (like maple) which are stronger the slower they grow. 

So when you are looking at ash logs or oak for chairs be sure to look for faster growing trees. 

(There is no red oak where I live (Northern Maine) so this log came from central New Brunswick and if you zoom the below picture you can clearly see times of fast growth and for some reason two 5 to 8 year periods of very slow growth).

Sanding Sharpener

      

      That same night, I wrote my first short story. It took me thirty minutes. It was a dark little tale about a man who found a magic cup and learned that if he wept into the cup, his tears turned into pearls. But even though he had always been poor, he was a happy man and rarely shed a tear. So he found ways to make himself sad so that his tears could make him rich. As the pearls piled up, so did his greed grow. The story ended with the man sitting on a mountain of pearls, knife in hand, weeping helplessly into the cup with his beloved wife's slain body in his arms.

Khaled Hosseini, The Kite Runner

So some time ago I bought a strip sander from Lee Valley (I've covered using it for curved blades in earlier posts). During covid lockdown I somehow stumbled across the tormek.  Maybe I was thinking about buying the Tormek I don't remember really. Pandemic fog is a thing. 

Anyway I didn't get the tormek but I did buy the guide bar and sought about seeing if I could use it on my sander. 

Well I did get it mounted and was able to use it on carving gouges which are definitely not my strong suit when it comes to sharpening.   

I use the big gouge to trim the tops of the legs and ends of tenons etc.  I noticed the other day it had some pretty good nicks in it so I decided to see how fast I could sharpen it start to finish. 

I used four different grits in the interest of time...180, 600, 1000 and 2000. Normally I wouldn't go all the way down to 180 but like I said there were nicks. 

I didn't take any shots as I was just seeing how quickly I could sharpen from nicked to razor. 

The official time was 2:40. That's it. Another thing I like about the sander is there isn't any (well very little) set up. No stones to wet not paper to dig out. It's literally just set the bevel, mark it make sure it's hitting right and sand for 2 minutes. Done. You can see the results below. Plenty sharp for me. 

New Drill

 

We are torn between nostalgia for the familiar and an urge for the foreign and strange. As often as not, we are homesick most for the places we have never known

Ballad of the Sad Cafe, Carson McClullers

Well my trusty Makita cordless drill finally gave up the ghost. The batteries died as they will and I was shocked to see the cost of OEM replacements so I bought a new drill kit. I actually went to get a new charger but ended up with a whole new Metabo kit on clearance. 

One reason I hung on so tightly to my old Makita is the small block of wood I had glued exactly in line with the drill bit. This allows me to use a pencil as a sight and in conjunction with a paper circle with concentric circles I can drill accurately thru a chair arm. 

But dead is dead so I needed to remember how I did this years ago. Turns out it isn't that hard. All that's needed is two lengths of ⅜ steel rod and a scrap of wood. 

Here you can see the view looking directly down on the pencil which will be in turn directly in line with the drill bit. 

Just take a ¾x1x1 block of wood and drill a stepped hole. The first hole only goes in a little bit maybe an ⅛ just enough to center the steel rod. Then drill a ⁵/16 thru hole for the pencil (the pencil needs a few wraps of tape to fit snugly). 

Then after cutting a couple blocks with a v groove cut in them chuck the drill rod in the drill and set the rear drill rod in the same cradle block and after putting a little construction adhesive on the block carefully push the rod onto the back of the drill. Then remove the rod and viola a perfectly centered block for a pencil bomb site. 

I actually did it to both my Hitachi drills as the new kit may end up on a job with me and it probably is a little overkill for the shop. 

Scrub Plane

  

Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it. The river was cut by the world's great flood and runs over rocks from the basement of time. On some of those 

Norman Maclean

I watched (or rather rewatched) A River Runs Through It last nite. I am always reminded what a wonderful story that is. My people my ancestors came to Northern Maine because of rivers. They came to Allagash and settled at the confluence of the Allagash and St John rivers to log and drive logs to the paper mills and lumber mills. It was a hard life and the men my ancestors were as tough as their peavey handles. That movie reminds me of that. Even to this day you live upstream or downstream from someone else. Not north or south. Upstream or downstream.  

In the process of moving downstate from Presque Isle to Portland and then back to Presque Isle (another town formed by rivers) I misplaced my scrub plane. I decided to build a new one. Seemed a pretty forgiving plane to build as it is a small step above a hatchet for refinement of cut. 

      I found some plans on line to give a rough idea but didn't follow them too closely. I used the wrong woods (birch for the sole, white ash for the cheeks) from a couple old pieces of firewood and a piece of maple for the tote.  The handle I traced off the Lie-Nielsen jack plane seen here. The front tote I just guessed. Both handles are tenoned into the body which seems solid. 

     Here you can see the curve of the Lie-Nielsen blade and the different woods. 

    The wedge assembly was a little tricky but not ridiculous.  I turned the wedge post and fitted it loosely so it could rotate if need be.  I also planed a small flat on the post; thinking it would better engage the wedge but this was probably overthinking it. The wedge is ash, roughly cut on the bandsaw. I left the saw marks... this is a working tool.

Below you can see the result. I flatten my chair seats a couple different ways. One way involves flattening one face with a scrub plane and winding sticks then marking the correct thickness and planing to that line. 

     The other method involves running a face flat on my jointer which leaves a large step (my jointer is 8" and I typically use 2x10 pine). I then scrub plane off the step and use my surface planer to bring it to final thickness.  I don't think one method is better or worse just depends on my mood and time constraints. 

It is easy to romanticize handplaning over machines. It is equally easy to romanticize the past too. The river still flows but they don't drive logs on them anymore. I'm still glad though that people still use upstream and downstream to delineate our place on earth.